Crown Trifari Round Domed Gold Tone Brooch

Crown Trifari Round Domed Gold Tone Brooch
This elegant brooch features a round matte gold-tone design with smooth and openwork wavy lines throughout. Measuring 4.9cm in diameter and weighing 35.2g, it has a rollover clasp and is signed "TRIFARI©" with the iconic crown above the "T."

The History of Trifari
Trifari was founded in New York in the early 1910s by Gustavo Trifari, a descendant of Italian jewelers from Naples. In 1925, Gustavo partnered with Leo Krussman and Carl Fishel, transitioning from hair accessories to costume jewelry. Originally named Trifari, Krussman, and Fishel (T.K.F.), the name was later shortened to Trifari to reflect its Italian heritage.

Trifari pieces are marked with "Jewels by Trifari," "TKF," or "Trifari," depending on their era. A significant turning point came in 1930 with the hiring of Alfred Philippe as head designer. Philippe, a master craftsman with fine jewelry expertise, elevated Trifari's quality and trained artisans to create designs that mimicked fine jewelry. Delicate settings, hand-set crystals, and motifs inspired by florals and marine life characterized Trifari’s sophisticated pieces.

Innovations and Hollywood Influence
In the 1930s, Trifari collaborated with Broadway and Hollywood to create custom designs for actors, enhancing its reputation. Philippe introduced innovations like invisible stone settings, sterling silver, vermeil finishes, and faux materials like imitation moonstone and chalcedony. Notable creations include the Trifari Crown brooches, introduced in the late 1930s, featuring colorful cabochons or monochromatic rhinestones. These designs were so popular that Trifari added a crown to its logo in 1937.

In 1953, the Coronation Gems collection celebrated Queen Elizabeth II’s ascension, showcasing Trifari's craftsmanship and creativity.

Challenges and Post-War Success
During WWII, metal rationing forced Trifari to use sterling silver, increasing costs but maintaining sales. After the war, Trifari introduced "Trifanium," a rhodium-finished base metal marketed as revolutionary, successfully reintroducing affordable costume jewelry.

Mamie Eisenhower’s endorsement further boosted Trifari’s prestige. For her 1953 inaugural ball, Alfred Philippe designed a custom pearl choker, bracelet, and earrings ensemble. Replicas were made for the Smithsonian and Trifari archives. Eisenhower’s continued patronage reinforced the brand’s status.

Legal Triumphs and Corporate Evolution
In 1955, Trifari won a landmark copyright case against Charel, setting a precedent for costume jewelry makers to use the © symbol. In the 1970s, Trifari updated its logo, removing the crown and adopting a modern typeface. By the 1990s, the logo transitioned to plain text with a trademark symbol. In 1994, Trifari joined the Monet Group, later acquired by Liz Claiborne in 2000.

Today, Trifari is celebrated for its timeless designs and craftsmanship, with vintage pieces like this brooch cherished by collectors worldwide.